was a princely exercise in aesthetics; the finest craftsmen building a summer palace of luxury in a blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles. The delightful waterborne approach by speedboat (passenger/boat 20/400) or fancy rowboat (boat 100) is the most enjoyable part of visiting.
Forty-five kilometres north of Kohima is the small town of Tuophema, cafe chalet which can make a useful overnight stop on the road to Mon if you leave Kohima late in the day. Although the town itself is nothing special, the
Dramatic if largely unadorned, cafe chalet this 1752 brick palace (Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk) is the last remnant of the Ahom s pre-Sivasagar cafe chalet capital. The unique four-storey structure rises like a sharpened, stepped pyramid above an attractive forest-and-paddy setting spoilt by nearby electricity substations. It s 900m north of the Sivasagar Sonari road: turn just before Gargaon (14km) from Sonari.
Bustling Jorhat is the junction for Majuli Island. Gar-Ali, Jorhat cafe chalet s commercial street, meets the main east west thoroughfare Assam Trunk (AT) Rd (NH37) in front of a lively central market cafe chalet area. AT Road is also home to an SBI ATM and the Netizen Cyberspace ( 20 per hr; h9am-8pm)
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