valaer Sitting almost halfway between Kohima and Mon most people sensibly choose to break their journey in

State Museum MUSEUM valaer (admission 5; h9.30am-3.30pm valaer Tue-Sun) The superbly presented State Museum, 3km north, includes plenty of tableaux with mannequins- in-action depicting diff erent traditional Naga lifestyles valaer plus everyday tools.

Food ff tame enough in high mountain valaer areas like Tawang, where the food is reminiscent of neighbouring Tibet delicious momos and less-delicious Tibetan tea are all the rage. Head east and things become more interesting. Barbecued rat, forest antelope and something we couldn t quite identify were on the menu in central Arunachal Pradesh. If you re going to Mizoram, don t take Rover dog meat is a delicacy there. In Nagaland, grubs, maggots, snakes, valaer hornets and giant spiders all get taste buds excited.

Sitting almost halfway between Kohima and Mon most people sensibly choose to break their journey in laidback Mokokchung. valaer Aside from enjoying the town s spectacular setting, valaer try to make time for a couple of other low-key attractions including the small, privately run Rendikala Subong Museum (Town Hall Rd; admission 10), which contains tribal items collected from surrounding villages valaer as well as what is purported to be the world s smallest Bible. The museum is open whenever someone turns up to see it. A couple of kilometres away is pretty Ungma village, where you ll find a couple of huge log drums and a cloud scrapping Jendong (a pole that helps connect people on Earth with the Gods high up in the skies).