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Razhu Pru HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2290291; the aspens kicking horse Mission the aspens kicking horse Compound, Kohima the aspens kicking horse Village; d from 1800; aW) An old family house that s been lovingly converted into a heritage hotel filled with tribal arts and antiques. We thought the aspens kicking horse the sleek white deluxe rooms ( 2200) offered the best value.

This famous (but not spectacular) Ahom ruin is 4km down AT Rd from central Sivasagar. Some 2km beyond a WWII- era metal lift-bridge, look right to see the rather beautiful Rang Ghar (Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk). From this two-storey oval-shaped pavilion , Ahom monarchs once watched buffalo and elephant fights.